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Ancient Mastiha Lends Cachet to Perfume

Mastiha tears dripping from a mastic-tree branch
Mastiha tears dripping from a mastic-tree branch

A unique and compelling scent wafts through the orchards on the island of Chios in the Aegean Sea, inspiring a master perfumer to develop a new fragrance. An analytical balance supports her in creating the perfect composition.


One spring, perfumer Bibi Bigler arrived on the Greek island of Chios. As the morning sun warmed the orchards, the fragrance of wild sage, oregano, grasses, and orange blossoms greeted Bigler. Then, she smelled something uniquely resinous and complex. It was the aroma of the Chios mastiha.

The mastic tree (Pistacia Lentiscus) is an evergreen that has existed in the Mediterranean region for over 50,000 years. A mature tree yields 150 – 180 grams (5.3 – 6.3 ounces) of mastic resin annually. There are 5,000 villagers on Chios who cultivate the mastic tree – by hand, as it has been for centuries – to yield precious mastic gum.

Mastic Resin's Intriguing Story

A Chios mastic tree in late summer with

Mastic is an aromatic, translucent sap that oozes after "scratching" the bark of the tree in mid-summer. The dripping mastic solidifies in the scorching sun and dries into semi-transparent, white resin with a distinctive aroma. Villagers harvest and clean the solidified resin pieces and then deliver them to the mastic growers' cooperative. The co-op then manages the further processing and packing of mastic for international trade. The mastic is also used for products such as essential oil, powder, and the famous ELMA chewing gum.

Chios mastic resin consists of 70 identified ingredients, many having therapeutic, medicinal, and aromatic properties. Today, we know it consists of 3% essential oil, 25% natural polymer, and 72% total extract. However, the full composition of mastic resin has yet to be fully studied.

Aromatic components of the essential oil for perfumers and for food and beverage flavorings have been studied and found to be mainly composed of α-pinene, mycerene, and β-pinene with earlier studies indicating also limonene and trans-caryophyllene.



Achieving Perfection with Precision

Masthia essential oil in the perfume laboratory
Masthia essential oil in the perfume laboratory

"After visiting Chios, I knew that I wanted to develop a new perfume using its mastiha oil,” Bibi Bigler, our adventurous perfumer, shared with us.

 "A perfume consists of 50 to 100 different raw ingredients," she states. "When I create a new fragrance, I work with undiluted extracts." She starts with a formula for the perfume concentrate, weighs the different extracts on a METTLER TOLEDO analytical balance, and then dilutes them with alcohol.



A bottle of Mystic Mastiha perfume

Bigler adjusts dosages, modifes the formula, and mixes the fragrance again, in order to smooth out any imperfections. Often, over 100 attempts are required before the perfect fragrance is achieved. "It is essential to use high-quality ingredients and highly accurate dosages," Bigler emphasizes. “Also note that one kilogram of mastic oil costs about 4,500 euros," she adds. "This is why I always measure the smallest amounts − in the microgram range − for my many trials."
 

We thanked Bigler and left her perfume laboratory knowing she had the right equipment for all her fragrance trials.

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